Shopping for a miter saw? Read this professional guide first

Our series of professional guides now continues to focus on miter saws. If the table saw is the cornerstone of the workshop and job site, then the miter saw is likely to be the cornerstone. It makes crosscuts, miters, and bevels in trim, and it locks everything into place, so to speak. Although table saws and miter saws share some features, you cannot substitute one for the other. Miter saws are more precise and safer than table saws for complex jobs, and they are fast. It's so handy, it's one of those must-have tools for every general contractor. So, if you're shopping for a miter saw, improve your knowledge.

Miter saws have been motorized and electric since the late 1970s, but their manual pedigree preceded it by at least three centuries. Carpenters will often make their own miter boxes from scrap wood, making 45° and 90° cuts. Leander Langdon introduced the first cast iron miter boxes in prewar America, and while the Langdon Miter Box Company did not last long, it laid the foundation for more durable and accurate miters.

Editor's note: Check out our best miter saws article for our top recommendations.

Know the Types of Miter Saws

Before purchasing, make sure you understand the type of miter saw so that it matches the features and capacity you need. Miter saws fall into three categories: stationary compound saws , sliding compound saws , and sliding dual compound saws (also known as dual-bevel or double-bevel saws). As you can probably guess, the price increases with the complexity of the saw design. Stationary compound miter saws can miter left and right, but only in one direction. Sliding compound miter saws have the added feature of moving back and forth along a track. Even more powerful is the sliding dual compound miter saw, which can do everything the other saws can, plus miter left and right.

The two slide designs are the most popular because the rails increase the blade's ability to cross cut. For example, imagine a miter saw blade that is 12 inches in diameter. If the saw does not slide, the maximum crosscutting capacity for a 90° cut is the blade diameter – 12 inches. Well, less than 12 inches due to the arbor blocking the way. But the slide feature can add a few inches to the crosscut—up to 16 inches or so. For miter saws 10" or smaller, it can achieve cross-cutting capabilities equal to or greater than stationary 12" models.

Saws & Miter Saws

Now you might think you've seen a saw that resembles a miter saw, but is neither a miter saw nor a miter saw. You need to know the difference between a chop saw and a miter saw. You typically use a gang saw with an abrasive cut-off wheel for metal cutting. While there are some utility saws on the market, most are either dedicated to cutting wood or metal. Miter saws and miter saws are best thought of as two separate tools, since most of them run at different RPMs, and the miter saws are sealed to withstand the hot metal scrap produced during the cutting process.

What is a miter saw good for?

If you're wondering what a miter saw is for – we can break it down in two directions. First, we can discuss what kind of cuts a miter saw makes in wood or other materials. Second, we can discuss the types of projects for which you may need a miter saw.

Miters are used to make cross cuts. This means you can put a piece of wood on a table or fence and cut it in half. Depending on which miter saw you own or buy, this cut can be straight, mitered, mitered, or mitered and mitered (combined cut). In a nutshell, that's what a miter saw does. It can accurately cut a piece of material (usually wood).

You wouldn't normally use a miter saw to cut large blocks of lumber – although technically you can. Miter saws are great for finishing projects with 1x material or similar. Basically, if getting the material to the miter saw is more work, then you probably want to use a good quality circular saw or something similar (like a track saw).

When we talk about the types of projects you might use a miter saw for – we could talk for days. Cutting baseboards or crown molding benefits from using a miter saw. You might use these saws when making small shelves or homemade picture frames. I used one when making raised garden beds.

Want a battery or corded miter saw?

Most miter saws are corded tools with 10, 12 or 15 amp motors. If you're doing a lot of wide crosscuts or working with hardwoods, consider a more powerful motor. If the saw is cutting thinner trim made of pine or composite materials, a less powerful motor will suffice.

But corded miter saws are no longer the only option. Viable battery-operated options like the Makita 10" 18V Miter Saw or the Milwaukee M18 FUEL 7-1/4" Miter Saw give tradesmen and DIYers reason to rejoice. No need to be tethered. Today's cordless Miter saws are smaller, lighter, and great for medium-duty and punch list jobs. Even better: They often come with brushless motors, which offer longer life, lower maintenance costs, and more.

For quieter, smoother starting operation, consider a miter saw with a soft-start motor.

What type of blade and crosscutting capability do you need?

We've briefly discussed crosscutting capacity, but there's more to say (and we're never absent!). Miter saw blades are traditionally available in 8-1/4, 8-1/2, 10 and 12 inch diameters. Larger blade diameters allow for longer cuts – in other words, greater crosscutting, beveling and beveling capabilities. If you plan to cut wide profiles or gauges, make sure the blade or blade and slide combination capacity exceeds that width.

One advantage of the 10" blade diameter is that it is interchangeable with the table saw. If you don't mind spending time changing blades between your table saw and miter saw, you don't need to buy two sets of circular blades. The same goes for your circular saw and cordless   Use a miter saw with a 7-1/4-inch blade. 7-1/4-inch blades are more readily available, which is a big plus in a pinch.

Consider a blade with a higher TPI (teeth per inch) for cutting hardwood or cleaning a finished cut of any material. The higher the number of teeth, the better the finish. Whatever you choose, be sure to replace the blade when it becomes dull—it's safer and easier to use with the saw's motor.

Pro tip: High-tooth-count blades cost more than low-tooth-count blades, but the best blades can eliminate the need to sand the edge of your wood.

Buy a miter saw with the correct brake and capacity

There is some variation in maximum miter and bevel range, but all saws are capable of cutting 45°. You'll find some compound saws with a 48° reach and some dual compound saws with an asymmetrical reach such as 50° left and 62° right. There are tricks of the trade for cutting odd angles, but that's beyond our scope. For almost all intents and purposes, any miter saw will have the necessary range of angles aside from some odd angles for skilled carpenters.

We recommend saws with positive brakes – pretty much a standard feature anyway. The brake is a mechanical catch that locks the movement of the machine until it is released. This way, there is no need to guess the exact angle. Miter saws should have stops at the most common angles: at least 90°, 45° and 22.5°. Look for saws that have a simple, smooth brake override so you can move the saw without the brake engaging every positive stop along the way and back. Saws may have fewer bevel stops (some don't), but it's best to have them at least 0° and 45°.

Pro tip: More miter saws are moving to front-mounted miter adjustments. They're much more convenient than sticking your hands behind them.

Laser or LED shade cutting guide

For years, miter saws have used laser beams to mark the path of the saw blade through the material. To be sure, this is an advanced feature, so not every saw has it. While they work reasonably well, they certainly don't make precise cutting foolproof. First, the red laser diode is not strapped to the blade, so it will likely come off easily. If we didn't know that the blade was cutting to the right of the laser line, our saw would have made our cut 1/8 inch shorter.

Of course, the diode could just fail and not emit light. But perhaps the biggest downside is that we associate it with red laser levels in bright light – they're hard to see. And the miter saw is often left outside, severely reducing the usefulness of the cutting line. This is why some advanced laser levels now use green diodes – they are easier to see – but they are much more expensive than red diodes.

So is there a solution? Well, yes, perhaps ironically, it's nowhere near as complicated as a laser. Several saws now use LED lights to cast the blade's shadow onto the material. It's always accurate due to the shadows cast by the blade. Although the LEDs may be off, shadows are easily visible even on the brightest of days.

Fences and material support

The fence for the miter saw keeps the wood safe during the cutting process. Always, always make sure the material is firmly pressed against the fence. Not doing so is very dangerous as the saw blade will grab the material and pull it violently towards the fence. We've seen smaller stocks airborne with less experienced users.

Fences come in different heights, and some can even slide out to extend support for longer sections. If you plan to cut tall crown molding or other tall material, choose a taller fence for maximum support. Speaking of support, the material support on the sides of the table helps with flimsy stock. But they are limited compared to the extended supports on equipment like the Milwaukee folding miter saw stand, which we'll discuss later.

Did we mention that stocks should always be held firmly against the fence?

During framing, you rarely, if ever, see a duster (vacuum cleaner) attached to a miter saw. Probably a rough cut outside, throwing the sawdust out of the dust and into the dirt. It's not particularly neat — but it doesn't need to be.

But miter saws cut indoors—a dust collector is required in your shop, garage, or client's place. It's not just for the mess the dust collector prevents—it's for the safety of anyone who breathes the air. In addition to being immediately unpleasant, inhaled particles can be harmful to the lungs over time. Oh, did you notice that sawdust is slippery? Weird, we know. But it's better to keep it away from the floor and air.

Notable Features and Accessories

Any miter saw you're running for your next tool should have an arm lock that secures the up and down motion of the blade, nesting it in the blade channel of the bench. The arm lock makes the saw more compact and secure. Plus a handle somewhere on the top of the saw to make moving it around easier. As we mentioned, relatively new battery-operated miters are designed for maximum portability.

Most miter saws have built-in material grippers. How many perfect cuts have been missed because of unsafe materials? We may never know. If you lose one, it's wise to get an aftermarket clip.

The most convenient accessory for a miter saw is the stand. Not only does it securely hold the saw to limit vibration, but it also has an extendable material support for cutting long stock. Some even have material stops, eliminating the need to mark multiple boards for the same cut – just set the stops and cut. We recommend spring-loaded miter saw frames if available.

Pro tip: The best miter saw stands include a gravity riser that rolls easily and sets up quickly.

Precautions for safe use of miter saws

We never let the self-evident get in the way of talking about them! So with any tool, especially those miter saws with exposed rotating blades, safe, safe, safe. Always wear eye protection and hearing protection. If you're working indoors without a dust collector, it's a good idea to wear some kind of mask, too.

Make sure the blade brake is working properly. After the trigger is released, the blade brake should stop the blade within seconds – ideally much faster than that. This is a safety issue, but it does take some time if you have to wait for the blade to stop spinning to remove material. It's also a good idea to use the miter saw's hinged blade guard in place. It protects you from the blade because it exposes enough of the blade to cut.

Pro tip: Wait for the blade to stop spinning before letting it back up.

If you're shopping for a miter saw, hopefully you'll find some good tips here. Once you decide what you want to get, first make sure how you calibrate your miter saw. What do you look for when shopping for a miter saw? Tell us in the comments below!

We used a Makita 18V X2 LXT brushless 10" miter saw for most of the photography in this article. Plus a Milwaukee M18 Fuel 10″ miter saw and a Makita VC4710 HEPA dust collector.

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