We've written a lot about the exercise. We've got everything from how to use a drill to what to look for in a professional-grade drill. This time we break down the components of this popular tool. This can even help you find parts for your power drill if you want to make repairs. Plus, knowing the parts of your power drill will help you get the most out of it. I hope this article is helpful to anyone from a DIYer or apprentice looking to get a better understanding of cordless drills.
Having said that, if you're looking for a specific part to repair your drill, that's not our pick. However, we might keep you around and at least know what you're looking for.
Start with the most expensive rig part – the motor
All of these parts of the drill rely on the motor to drive the object smoothly. There are two main types: brushed and brushless motors. Brushless motors are more expensive to manufacture, but they can give you longer life, more power, and longer run times. The reason they cost more has to do with how they operate. Needless to say here, brushless swamps are always integrated electronic circuits. So you don't just have a motor – you have an electronic assembly that works with it.
Brushless motors are not inherently more powerful than brushed motors, but you do have more control over the tool.
The most expensive part of a power drill includes the power supply
Most power drills you'll come across are either corded (AC) or cordless (DC). Corded drills give you as much runtime as possible, while cordless models require recharging.
There are many types of cordless models. Here's a quick breakdown:
- 4V or 8V – typically used for light screwdriving of delicate materials
- 12V – Lightweight and compact, these can do 80% of what most pros do
- 18V/20V/24V Max – These can be compact or heavy duty and make up the majority of what professionals use. By the way, the difference between 18V and 20V batteries is a myth.
- 36V/40V/60V/80V – You won't see many, but they are designed to have higher power than 18V, or just provide solutions for higher voltage platforms. However, you will see larger rotary hammers that function like large concrete drill bits.
battery chemistry
The cordless world has eliminated nickel metal hydride (NiMH) and nickel cadmium batteries (NiCad) from power tools. You may still see some NiCad on the shelf – but we never recommend buying these tools. Lithium-ion battery technology allows drills to get more power and run longer. These battery packs have higher power density – so you get more power in less space. They also don't have that annoying battery memory effect.
Drill triggers include complex electronic parts
With the exception of 4V/8V tools, most cordless drills have variable speed triggers. It just means that as you pull on it, it gives you more and more speed and power. Combined with a brushless motor, these triggers typically have multiple wires that work with the controller.
Drilling direction or rocker switch
A rocker switch allows you to switch the chuck from forward (clockwise rotation) to reverse (counterclockwise). Let the switch sit halfway between the two to lock it.
gear selection switch
If your drill can switch gears, you'll usually find the switch on top. The relationship between speed and torque for these tools is inverse. At high speeds, there is less torque. You get maximum torque at low speeds. Most of these tools come with a two-speed gearbox, but others do, too. As many as four.
Some rigs even include full electronic controls, usually above the battery. Others go a step further, with the option to connect via Bluetooth to your smartphone or tablet for tool customization. Check out Milwaukee One-Key Technology and DeWalt Tool Connect for more information.
fashion/clutch collar
Check the swivel ring behind the collet. This allows you to select a lower torque setting to activate the clutch. It lets you stop the drill from turning too hard for smaller fasteners. The lower the number, the lower the torque. However, these figures do not represent actual torque values. They just mark the position relative to the whole.
Twist the collar counterclockwise and you will usually find a drill icon. This disengages the clutch, allowing you to get all the available torque.
If you have a hammer drill, you'll see a hammer icon farther away than the drill icon (in most cases). Some tools place the device behind the clutch as a separate mechanism.
Cordless Drill Ratcheting and Non-Ratcheting Chucks
Most are keyless, although there are still some keyed chucks with larger hybrid bits. Simply turn the collet on the front of the tool clockwise. This opens it, while turning it counterclockwise closes it. Inside, metal prongs (usually three) extend outward when closed. They grip your drill securely as you tighten the collets.
Better keyless chucks have a ratchet action. When you close it all the way onto the bit, you'll hear it give you a few extra twists to really hold the bit in place. The importance of knowing how to use a keyless drill chuck cannot be overemphasized.