How to Install a Central Vacuum System (Large Picture Overview)

There are basically 4 parts to a central vacuum system, and installing one is not as daunting as you might think. Most people think of these as very difficult systems that you have to install before building your house. In fact, retrofitting or learning how to install a central vacuum system is very simple after the fact.

We will walk through the central vacuum installation process in detail in this article. We want to help you decide if it's right for you by summarizing and simplifying the process.

Advantages of installing a central vacuum system

Central vacuum systems have several advantages. First, a central vacuum system can be healthier because it doesn't vent air back into the home like standalone models. Instead, the main part of the vacuum cleaner, the canister that handles the actual vacuuming and filtering, is located in the garage or other remote location.

Components of a central vacuum system

For new installers and consumers in this category, here are the basic parts of a central vacuum system. Every system has some form of these parts that make the central vacuum system work.

Powerplant or tank/filter system

This is the actual machine containing the vacuum motor and housing that sucks up and stores dirt for removal. Vacuum motors use the household electrical system (usually a single 120V/20A circuit). It often incorporates filters and noise suppression, allowing it to operate in garages or other concentrated areas of the home.

All plumbing in the home goes back to the power unit or carbon tank. This is where most of the cost of a standard system for small to mid-sized homes comes in.

Most of these systems use bags instead of the more common cyclone systems found on standalone vacuums. The reason for this is simple. First, bag systems provide simpler and more efficient filtration. Second, it prevents dangerous dust and dirt particles from entering the motor, thus extending the life of your central vacuum system. A big advantage of the cyclone system is that it doesn't require a bag and the suction stays on longer. However, cyclonic systems often require outdoor ventilation.

PVC piping for airflow

Before you can get a central vacuum, you'll need to have PVC pipes run throughout your home. This keeps the vacuum cleaner sucking dust and debris into the center tank/power unit.

As you can imagine, you'll want to use wide sweeps everywhere you need 90-degree corners. Narrow radii create choke points, and you don't want those. Where possible, we recommend a layout with a series of 45-degree bends rather than 90-degree bends to bring everything back to the main line.

Along with plumbing, you'll typically run high and/or low voltage wiring depending on your system. For power headers, you can either plug them into the wall or use an advanced system that integrates a 120V power drop into the entry board.

Entrance or entrance siding

Inlets are important because they are the contact points for the central vacuum system. This is where you connect your motorized brush and do your vacuuming work. This is where it acts as the touch point to activate the system and start the descaling process. Typically, the inlet is installed in the interior wall cavity and serves as the interface point between the pipe and the brush hose.

A single entry can typically cover 600 to 900 square feet of living space. It was a room approximately 30' x 30'. The inlet can be mounted on the base plate or at the same height as the power outlet (approximately 18 inches). Inlets can include "live" 120V AC power or "air only" low voltage cables to activate the central vacuum system when hose presence is detected. Planning the entrance is important. You don't want to create a situation where you have to buy extra long hose because it's misplaced and you can't reach the corner of the room with standard hose lengths.

If you choose live outlets, we recommend (and consult your local building codes) that they be installed at the height of the electrical outlet. We prefer baseboard level. You can buy a central vacuum as a new build or as an aftermarket solution. They can also be equipped for newer drywall applications and for use with lathes and plaster.

Electric brushes, hoses and accessories

A good electric brush and hose will last you a lifetime. They simply connect to the inlet and a low pressure trigger opens the central vacuum system to provide suction. You can find hose up to 30 feet long (remember that 900 square foot figure from earlier?). You can also find longer lengths when needed. The idea is to place your inlets intelligently so you don't want to string hoses together to reach all your areas.

For a 2-story house, it is advisable to purchase a set of electric brushes and hoses to keep things simple and avoid lugging larger tools up and down the stairs. Remember, if you have a live outlet, your electric brush just needs to be plugged in to get everything it needs. For "pure air" inlets, you'll also need to plug into a standard electrical outlet. You can get brushes to handle just about any task—from vacuuming floors to cleaning upholstery, or giving your rover a good vacuum. There are also tons of accessories for easy cleaning of stairs, ceiling fans and more.

General Tools and Supplies Required

• tape measure
• pencil
• Electrical tape and cable ties
• Pipe cutter, cordless reciprocating saw, or hacksaw
• cordless drill
• screwdriver
• Wood Drill Bit (2-1/2 in.)
• hammer
• stud finder
• Hole saw (2-1/2 inches)
• Utility knife
• Wire strippers
• miter saw

Vacuum line supply required

We describe planning below. This sets you up with the required amount of PVC pipe, elbows, inlet valves, etc. Every home is different, but all follow the same basic philosophy and workflow.

• Inlet Valve Kit or Panel
• vacuum tube
• Mounting brackets
• 90 degree short elbow (2″ PVC)
• 90 degree elbow (2″ PVC)
• 45 degree elbow
• scan it
• stop coupler
• pipe belt
• PVC primer and glue
• Cable tie
• low voltage wire

Planning Your Central Vacuum Layout

Start by planning your central vacuum layout. You want the main PVC vacuum line to run through the center of the house (under the subfloor, through the crawl space, or in the attic). Beyond that, you'll be running a "trunk line" that terminates at the entrance. Beware of situations such as running PVC next to a chimney or anywhere condensation may be encountered. In these cases, you may need to switch to a metal product or use insulation.

One entrance can only serve a maximum of 800 square feet. Not only that, but you won't be able to reach these areas with standard hose lengths. We recommend running the mains through the interior wall whenever possible so you don't have to run the 2" PVC through the exterior wall insulation.

For a two-story design, we strongly recommend that you hire a professional, as this introduces serious complications.

Install the central power unit

Install a paper bag filter system or cyclone system in your garage, basement, utility room or laundry room. If you happen to be using a true cyclone system, make sure it vents properly to the outside. Remember, you need to be able to empty the unit and use the filter quickly and easily. You'll also need to power the central vacuum, so place it within 6 feet of a suitable outlet.

Placement shouldn't be difficult, but requires careful consideration. Just remember to make sure there is enough current available on the outlet to power the system. Many of these central vacuums require up to 15 amps to operate.

Install PVC pipe and inlet valve

Needless to say, depending on your home, running PVC pipe may be easier or more difficult. Easy access to a large attic or crawl space simplifies things considerably. Needing to pass through block walls or dealing with areas prone to ice can present some difficulties.

Make good use of closets to "hide" the plumbing to the floor, bypassing any hard-to-locate sill panels. These often provide the easiest solutions when coming from above or below. Floor valves also help eliminate difficulties when retrofitting intake valves and installing central vacuum systems on existing older homes.

Run Low Voltage Wiring

You actually want to run the low voltage wires side by side with the PVC. You can mirror the branches of each inlet running from the main line by splicing low voltage wiring to the main line with wire nuts or connectors. Use cable ties to secure the low voltage wires to the PVC to hold them in place and make them easy to reposition if required.

Use systems such as different colored wires to remember and maintain correct polarity throughout the run.

Check your work!

Always make sure your system is functioning properly before shutting everything down. This means "stress testing" it. You can do this by running it briefly with all the entry doors closed to see the amount of exhaust (should be little or nothing).

You can also walk around the house while testing the system and listen for any obvious leaks. This may indicate that you forgot to glue a piece of PVC.

in conclusion

While this is by no means a guide to every ins and outs of installing a central vacuum system in your new or existing home, we hope it's helpful. Consult an electrician if you need help with wiring. As always, we recommend using a professional if you seem to be having trouble fixing any issues yourself. Still, installing a central vacuum system is one of those projects that yields lasting benefits.

Many people shy away from central vacuum systems, thinking they are too difficult or complicated to install. We see it differently. If you thought drilling some holes in your interior wall headers, lowering some power and running PVC wasn't too big of a project – you might find that installing a basic central vacuum system is actually just a few days' work . When in doubt, find a licensed contractor, but you might be surprised to learn that this kind of project is easier than you think.