For years, woodworkers have relied on the best table saw or radial arm saw for the most precise mechanism miter and crosscuts. When miter saws first came out, they were crudely made things that would not be adopted lightly by those who valued accuracy over portability. For job site carpenters, these tools can save a lot of time. However, it took years for woodworkers to open shop doors for these portable saws. To get the most out of these tools, you need the best thin-cut miter saw blades.
Today, a good quality modern miter saw is the tool of choice for fine crosscuts, miters and compound angle (miter and bevel at the same time) cuts. According to industry data, 12-inch miter saws have overtaken 10-inch saws as the tool of choice for professionals. This applies both on the job site and in the workshop.
Editor's note: Check out our best miter saws article for our top recommendations.
Why use finishing inserts?
For the smoothest miter sawing in furniture making, cabinet making and trim work, you need a saw blade with a lot of teeth. Stock 12" blades typically have 32 teeth. A good pruning blade usually has 80 of them. We've selected the best cutting blades with 90 to 100 teeth for the ultimate miter saw.
Densely serrated blades allow for the smoothest cuts. Typically, these blades are limited to cutting hardwoods that are 1-1/2 inches thick or thinner. With so many teeth biting together, there is a lot of friction. In addition, the small alveoli of this tightly packed tooth slowly expel wood chips. The deeper the incision, the slower the progression and the greater the heat buildup. You can only cut as fast as the blade will allow. In deep cuts, the velocity may not be sufficient to overtake the burn.
While generally the thickest and largest blades provide the most stability in cutting, heavy-duty, fully-serrated blades are not best suited for the short, intermittent cutting action of a miter saw. It's much easier on your saw to accelerate a lighter blade and use the motor brake to stop it quickly. This allows the user to move a bit faster while cutting. Thin blades also use less power when cutting. This is great news for underpowered sawers or workers who share a 20 amp circuit with three other trades.
Because of these advantages (and lower cost), thin-cut miter saw blades are becoming more and more popular. The downside of these thinner blades is that they are more prone to deflect and shift during the cut. This especially negatively affects beveling. According to my blade sharpening consultant, this effect intensifies as those blades begin to dull. This is why many industrial users do not use them.
ATB, ATB+R, ATAF, WTF?
For the smoothest miter sawing in furniture making, cabinet making and trim work, you need a saw blade with a lot of teeth.
The construction of a miter saw blade is fairly simple. It's an alphabet soup of abbreviations that make it seem so technical. For extra fine crosscutting blades for solid wood (like the one in the test), the alternating top bevel (ATB) design is best.
Different ATB designs may have helical teeth, more pointed high-bevel teeth, or beveled teeth. All of these are variations of the basic ATB, which cuts the outer edges of the notch first, then scoops out the middle. This action scores the wood before scraping off any wood chips. It leaves the cleanest finish along the top edge of the cut. Hi-ATB teeth with sharper tops score deeper to prevent chipping in brittle materials such as veneered plywood and MDF.
What are rake tines?
Rake tines are symmetrical flat-topped tines used to clear wood between the grooves formed by the left and right sloping tines. They are always set lower than the helical teeth. A rake can be placed between each set or between each other set of ATB tines. Therefore, the blade designates them as (2+1) or (4+1) respectively.
The final twist in ATB tooth design is the alternating face design. Also known as a shear plane, the teeth are angled with the highest side facing forward. This engages the wood at a sharper angle for a shear cut along the sides of the cut.
blade anatomical definition
- ATB: Alternate Top Bevel
- Hi-ATB: Alternating Top Bevel Teeth with High Bevel Teeth
- ATB+R: Alternating top bevel with rake tines
- ATAF: Alternating Apex and Alternating Face Angles
All (blade) angles
The most relevant tooth angles to know are rake angle (or rake angle), top rake angle and face angle. The rake angle is the orientation of the tooth flank relative to a radial line drawn through the center of the insert (like the spokes of a wheel). Teeth parallel to this radial line have a rake angle of 0 degrees. Positive rake teeth provide stronger bite, lower feed pressure and faster cutting speeds.
Negative teeth are more like scraping, slower and require more feed pressure. They reduce the possibility of tearing the cut surface. Most extra fine ATB crosscutting blades have a very low or negative rake angle for smooth cutting.
The top bevel is the angle across the top of the tooth when viewed straight from the front. Bevel angles of 30 degrees and higher generally constitute high ATB teeth. The steeper the teeth, the better the scoring will be on both sides of the cut. This also causes the tooth tips to dull more quickly. Also, the amount of unsupported carbide on the steeper tip may require the manufacturer to use a softer, more impact-resistant carbide that dulls more quickly.
The face angle is the angle of the tooth when viewed from above. The standard teeth are perpendicular to the blade plate, while the shear face teeth are inclined alternately left and right.
Additional thin-kerf blade features
The blade's story is simple: it's mostly about the teeth. But there are some other features to consider. Blade coatings, such as polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE), powder coating, or even chrome, serve two functions. In addition to preventing corrosion, the smooth surface is less prone to asphalt adhesion and can be wiped clean quickly.
Noise suppression slots are prominent laser-cut zigzags on many of the blade plates. They are designed to capture vibrations and absorb the squeal of the blade as it cuts through wood. Polymer-filled slots restrain the blade more effectively than open slots. We can at least sample this while manually ringing the bell – I'm not too keen on hearing usage differences!
As far as I'm concerned, all blades can cause progressive hearing loss. To counter this, I wear ear defenders while cutting. One disadvantage of notching blades is that the curved piercing material cannot be bent back without cracking (and thus damaging) the blade. Another complaint is that grooving blades never flatten or strain over the course of their life like solid plate blades do.
Best Thin Cut Miter Saw Blades Tested
I use a 12" Hitachi C12FDH miter saw as my test bench. This saw has earned high marks in past tool tests I have participated in. I purposely chose a non-sliding miter saw to eliminate any extra play in the saw mechanism. This will make it harder for me to analyze the cutting results of the blade independently of the tool. Since I'm testing average sized material, a cutting-only saw is the right tool for the job anyway.
To assess cut quality, I put each blade through a series of crosscuts and bevel cuts. We used a variety of materials of different sizes and thicknesses. Following the cuts in the same order and labeling them carefully, I ended up making over 20 individual samples of each blade. Later I double-checked those under an angled light.
test hardwood
Hard maple and cherry gave me the best view of the scratch pattern and the best check of the blade's propensity to burn. The ring-shaped porous structure of white oak allows for the best assessment of the sharpness of the blade along the cutting end. The veneer covered plywood and MDF slats accentuate the clean cut along the cut top edge. Lacquered beech, maple and Baltic birch plywood make it easy to look for chips along the fragile finished edges.
I also run the saw through the material without accounting for the resulting cut, just to assess the feed pressure and smoothness of the cut. It also helped me better describe the overall experience of cutting with each blade. After the sawdust dust had settled, I had the owner of a respected professional knife sharpening business come over and offer his expertise. I also brought in a friend of mine who is a reputable furniture maker and cabinetmaker. Adding the opinions of these people to mine gives a complete look at these blades. I could write a book…
microscopic examination
Before and after testing, I used a high-resolution USB microscope to take photomicrographs of the sides, faces, and top edges of several selected teeth on each blade. I am trying to detect any early wear to use as a predictor of edge life. Unfortunately, I didn't make enough cuts to see any difference. My blade sharpening consultant estimates that each blade may crosscut 2,000 feet of hardwood trim before needing to be sharpened. That's a pretty hefty amount of miles – way more than I get every single time.
However, the microscope allowed me to get a close look at individual carbide teeth and their brazing, while teaching me a lot about cutting tooth geometry.
Best Thin Cut Miter Saw Blade Results
In general, it's safe to say that you can achieve an acceptably fine cut with any of these blades. This applies especially to new blades. As each blade ages, the quality of its construction and components will become more apparent. Almost every blade comes with a dozen sharpening's worth of carbide. Some people may not be worth a $250 investment that represents their lifetime.
We were most impressed with the Forrest, Freud, and Tenryu blades for their aesthetic quality, advanced features, and superior cutting performance. They seem to represent some of the best investments of lasting value a serious craftsman can make. If you want the best thin cut miter saw blades, start here.
Thanks to Tim Lancaster of Precision Knife and Tool in Fort Collins, CO for sharing his expertise in saw blade detailing.
Thanks to my friend and furniture craftsman Peter Glass for sharing his thoughts on evaluating the quality of various wood cuts. www.peterglasswoodworks.com
Sawing Tips
Of course, a saw and blade can do most of the work, but it's important to be a conscientious saw operator if you want to achieve the smoothest and safest cuts. Here are some important tips.
Set the saw up for success.
It all starts with the fence. Using a trusty straight edge, check that the left and right fence sections are coplanar – lack of support on both sides of the workpiece will result in vibration and dangerous cuts. Next, check every few inches along the fence with an exact square to make sure the fence surface is perpendicular to the saw table. Once the fence is screwed in place, align the blade with the fence and align the 0 degree mark on the miter scale to that position. Then do the same for the bevel setting while aligning the blade with the table. If the plastic insert in the center of the bench is not flush with the surrounding metal surface, you must fill the insert level. If not level, short or pliable stock can slope down during cutting, binding the blade and burning the cut.
Create zero-gap cut surfaces.
I've made zero-gap table inserts in the past out of cardboard, but cutting them to shape was a tedious job, and it was harder to pad them flat. Also, it still leaves the side of the work facing the fence unsupported and prone to blowout. Now, if I need the smoothest possible cut, I attach strips of cardboard to the fence and table with double sided tape, covering just enough area to fully support the stock I'm cutting. The downside is that you need to change the strips when you change the miter angle, but I find that I usually do straight or miter cuts for a project and rarely switch between the two.
Never allow the teeth to touch the workpiece twice.
Careless cutting technique is responsible for two of the biggest problems associated with miter saws: the ragged edge at the top of the cut and the small cutting pieces that travel through the air with the blade. Follow this simple advice to avoid both. When you're done cutting, press down on the saw head until the blade comes to a complete stop. Since the teeth are wider than the blade plate, no part of the blade should touch the workpiece as the blade moves down.
Only when the rotating saw teeth re-engage with the wood does the top edge tip upwards, and small chips resting on the blade are caught by the saw teeth and ejected violently. If you have a lot of leftover cutting blades, you can raise the saw head with the blade in motion. Simply slide the finished cut piece off the blade first.
Best thin-kerf blade results
CMT Industrial Thin Cut
Model: 255.096.12
ITK (Industrial Thin Incision) finishing blades are part of the Italian blade company's mid-range line.
- Noise/vibration suppression: 3 slots, average damping effect
- Flatness: very good
- Cut Quality: Significant scoring and some irregularities in end grain. Irregular markings appear to be attributable to vibrations.
- Price: $75.32
Summary: A decent, true Hi-ATB blade that can be found online for a very good price – probably the cheapest blade tested.
Diablo (Floyd)
Model: D12100X
The Ultimate Flawless Finish Blade from Diablo-Freud's value-driven construction line.
- Coating: PTFE on Aluminum
- Noise/vibration suppression: 4 half-full slots, good damping effect
- Flatness: Good (maximum 0.003” near perimeter dip)
- Cut Quality: Slight scratches and some irregularities on the endgrain, more of a miter cut. Irregular markings appear to be attributable to vibrations.
- Price: $54
Bottom Line: This insert gripped the workpiece better than the others due to the largest rake angle in the test. The shearing face design is a nice feature for a blade this low in price.
Dewalt Woodworking
Model: DW7650
High-end line of woodworking blades from DeWalt.
- Noise/vibration dampening: 3 slots for very good damping
- Flatness: Good (maximum 0.002″ inclination near center)
- Cut Quality: Minor scratches on end grain, more on bevels
- Price: $76
Bottom Line: This classic-style uncoated blade has the largest carbide teeth ever seen—thicker and taller than any other blade in the test. However, it is on the expensive side for the average overall results it has posted.
Forrest Signature Collection Chopmaster
Model: CM12905115
Quality product from the brand for sure, but not their most expensive thin cut miter saw blades.
- Noise/Vibration Suppression: No
- Flatness: very good
- Cut Quality: Very smooth. Some cherries burn slightly.
- Price: $207
Summary: A premium, heavy-duty blade with an old-school sensibility. Built to be repaired like a vintage car, the non-porous blade plate can be re-flattened in the event of failure. Although the plate thickness is listed as 0.095", surface grinding to flatten the sides of the plate means individual blades may vary. We measured 0.088". The blades are especially loud in use, but the cutting results are top notch. The most expensive blade in the test.
Floyd Industries
Model: LU74R012
Named Thin Kerf Ultimate Cutoff Blade.
- Coating: PTFE on Aluminum
- Noise/vibration suppression: 8 half-full slots, very well damped
- Flatness: Good (0.003” dip max near center)
- Cut Quality: Marked lines on end grain
- Price: $92
Bottom Line: Good features and build, but nothing that wowed us like its Hi-ATB branding counterpart. The blade has a special side grind with tiny "bumpers" along the edge of the teeth designed to rub the cutting edge and sand the wood smooth.
Floyd Industries
Model: LU79R012
Named Thin Kerf Ultimate Plywood & Melamine blades for their Hi-ATB grinding teeth.
- Coating: PTFE on Aluminum
- Noise/vibration suppression: 8 half-full slots, excellent shock absorption, minimal vibration
- Flatness: very good
- Cut Quality: Very light scoring on the ends, more on the bevels
- Price: $91
Summary: A truly outstanding baseboard in testing and a favorite choice of my furniture maker friends. This Hi-ATB shear face design combines high performance, premium features and a moderate price – it's all you need.
Owen Maples
Model: 1807385
The Marples brand was recently cleared by Irwin and placed on their line of premium blades.
- Coating: PTFE with aluminum
- Noise/vibration suppression: 4 slots, poor damping
- Flatness: Fair (0.004” dip max near center)
- Cut Quality: Scratches are very light on the end grain, but the left side of the blade burns on the right side of all miter cuts. The blade also left a burn on the top of the slab on the left which I believe was due to rubbing against the incredibly thick printed label.
- Price: $81.71
Summary: This blade is a make-or-break proposition that does some things well, but not quite enough to be as competitive as it could be.
Denon Mitre-Pro
Model: MP-305100AB
The Miter-Pro range is the brand's stronger thin-cut offering, designed for better bevel cutting in pruning work.
Coating: matte chrome
- Noise/Vibration Suppression: 5 full slots, excellent shock absorption, virtually no vibration
- Flatness: Fair (0.005” dip max near center)
- Cut Quality: Very smooth – only the faintest scratches on the end grain
- Price: $155
Summary: High tech and high performance sums up this premium cutting surface blade. The vibration dampening slots are filled all the way with polymer, making the blade virtually vibration-free. Hitting the blade with wood chips sounds like hitting a countertop—the shock absorption is fantastic. Although on the expensive side.
Tianlong muffler
Model: SL-305100
One of the brand new coated blades in the brand's less expensive Silencer line.
Coating: PTFE
- Noise/Vibration Suppression: 10 full slots, excellent shock absorption, virtually no vibration
- Flatness: Fair (0.004” dip max near center)
- Cut Quality: Very smooth – only the faintest scratches on the end grains, and the smoothest bevels
- Price: $92.40
Bottom Line: Like the pricier Mitre-Pro, this blade delivers great cutting results and efficient vibration-damping technology. One downside – the tiny carbide teeth are only 2/3 the size of the normal teeth in the test. This will force the blade to be retired early after sharpening times have been greatly reduced. However, this blade has amazing cut quality and price.
